It was a welcome opportunity indeed to escape the excessive heatwaves affecting much of the European Continent this summer and to head north to enjoy cooler temperatures in Scandinavia, for a couple of weeks at least. We headed for the West Coast of Sweden again this time, with kayaks strapped securely to the roof of the car, to explore some of the magnificent coastal landscapes between Gothenburg and the Norwegian border.

To my mind, there are two basic ways to go about planning a trip; one is to follow others itineraries and seek out popular and recommended hotspots (or the “Instagram” approach); the alternative being to start out with a local map and to use a bit of imagination to spot some opportunities which might not feature in mainstream guidebooks or blogs. I personally like the latter approach, whereby the map effectively creates a blank canvas to potentially open up whole new worlds of opportunity.

One region that had attracted my attention was the area around Orust, a large island located to the northwest of Gothenburg on Sweden’s wild west (Bohuslän) coast. In this region, the coastline is deeply indented by countless inlets and fjords, with a plethora of small islands and complex rocky terrain just begging to be explored. The islands and peninsulas provide great sheltered conditions for paddling, with limited exposure from the prevailing south-westerly winds and waves which hit the main coastline.

We were lucky to find some characterful accommodation for a couple of weeks in the small hamlet of Eriksberg in the District of Uddevalla. Even better, our accommodation was located just a couple of hundred metres from the water and it was possible to roll kayaks straight down to a small sheltered harbour (using a trolley) and to be out on the water within a matter of minutes.

In contrast to some other areas of the coast around Orust, this proved a pretty peaceful spot, with very few of the dreaded powerboats or jet skis in evidence to break the silence (and create kayak sinking waves). In particular, the coastline around the secluded island nature reserve of Kalvön is really beautiful and wild, though in reality there are any number of islands of varying size to “bag” and explore. That said, some attention to winds, changing weather conditions and tides (although tidal ranges are comparatively small in this part of the world) is essential to avoid getting into tricky situations. Obviously, a bit of kayaking experience is not such a bad idea either 😉

As well as being beautiful places in their own right, the islands and coastal habitats provide a home to a diverse flora and fauna, often reminiscent of Scotland (thankfully without the midges !). The extensive woodlands of spruce, birch and Scots pine have been left to regenerate naturally and have very much the feeling of the “wildwood”, with decaying and fallen trees providing a home to diverse fungi, ferns, mosses and lichens. Rare wildflowers include lesser twayblade and the delicate twinflower, whilst the woods echo to the sound of tits, goldcrests and treecreepers. There are also areas of coastal grasslands, salt marsh and a tidal lagoon which is popular with geese and a variety of wading birds.

Of course, there’s so much more to see in the wider region (other than from a kayak), including the district capital of Uddevalla with its fascinating museum and a variety of colourful old fishing villages strung along the coast such as Grundsund, Fiskebäckskil and Gullholmen. These offer some pleasant harbourside eateries, attractive fishermen’s houses, historic ships and a distinctly seaside vibe.

For the more adventurous, a trip to the remote Väderörna archipelago (“Weather Islands”) from Hamburgsund is also highly recommended. This remote, rocky chain of reefs and islands feels like a different world and is located about 10km off the coast of the Swedish mainland. A visit to Väderörna also offers the chance for encounters with marine life including numerous sightings of harbour seals (there’s also a nice restaurant and a café as a magnet for gastronomy-minded seafarers).

Finally, what I love about west Sweden is the feeling of space, the elemental rocky landscapes, the simple clarity of light and the intensity of the colours encountered along the coast. Whilst it’s fair to say that not everywhere along the Bohuslän coast is empty and pristine, with a little imagination, you can soon find yourself far from madding crowds by a quiet bay, or even perched on top of your very own rocky island (which you’ve bagged) and the master of all that you survey !

Such moments are surely priceless and to be savoured in our evermore frenetic, crazy and crowded world. Enjoy exploring !!